“What are we celebrating?” Sergio Montes asked during Carnaval, the Cuban Mardi Gras. “Getting through life.” Montes, 27, was part of a comparsa, a group of elaborately costumed dancers and bands that ...

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The comparsa drums are thundering, but it's the piano driving the beat with a furious array of improvisations that blend raw Afro-Cuban rhythms with the toe-tapping, head-bobbing beats of straight ...